May 2005
Friends,
I returned Friday evening from a fairly relaxing 5 days in Yelapa, Mexico.
Whilst there, I checked out some possibilities for a large casa to rent,
if we all agreed that this is the place to meet for the week 'tween
Christmas and New Years..(approx Dec 26th to Jan 2nd, 2006, which is
a Monday - Monday week)Note: I took pictures, but digital versions will
not be available for a few days...the web links maybe have sufficient
and more plentiful views,
anyways..
My Impressions of Yelapa:
It's a great place to hang out and relax in the Mexican style. The Pueblo
of Yelapa is hillside on a large cove, and the villagers live ona combination
of fishing and tourism. Unlike Matzalan and Ensenada (my only comparisons
in Mexico on the coast) the locals were not aggressive on the selling
of typical tourist crap or adventure, although you couldfind or rent
just about any typical diversions, be it para-sailing, fishing, or chemical.
NO Time Share CONDOs visible anywhere...for sale.Yelapa
Cove Sud is the Village, or Pueblo side, and since it's now off season,
alot of the restaurants and Bars were closed, but the villagehas Casa's
and rooms for rent, no typicalhotels, and markets, bothvegetable and
fish, and their own tortilla factory and waterpurification plant. The
town is electrified, and has phones in many houses, and public type
too. Even an outdoor Cafe for coffee and lattes, that was open every
morning...(not all places are).
Yelapa Cove Norte is primarily the Hotel Lagunita, where the Animal
stayed, and is really a good place for a low key, relaxing vacation.Since
it is Hotel-like, it has a bar, restaurant, and amenities notfound in
the pueblo, and is open regular hours..( I only stayed to close to the
bar 1 night, unfortunately I don't remember what ahora it was..) http://www.hotel-lagunita.com
The rooms are mostly open style Palapa structures, with various styles
and sizes... mine had double beds, a great bathroom with gin-bottle
glass brick lighting, and ornate tho rustic pebble and tiles surfaces.All
the rooms had close proximity to the cove, and the ocean waves permeated
my rest..The staff are friendly and the 2 co-managers are Ex-pats with
some great stories of old Yelapa and what is was like...but it's not
so bad now...Tween the 2 sides of the Cove is a clean coarse sand beach,
with clean water, for swimming and snorkeling, and beach kayaking, etc.
This beach is approx 1 mile long, and in between the 2 sides are 5-7
beach restaurants, that seem to be there for 1 reason, from 11 AM to
3 PM the tour ferry and sail boats come from Puerto Vallarta, with 50
to 100 tourists, who eat, swim para-sail and then leave, when it suddenly
gets real quite again...and most places closed down and the workers
go home.
Getting there:
There are a couple methods, but the most frequent is the Water Taxi
service from Puerto Vallarta; cost about $8 to 10 each way, depending
on how much you want to haggle. It takes 40 minutes in calm seas, maybe
50
on my way there, in moderate seas...if it's rough seas or raining, I
would wait until the next day, or try to get the Yelapa Princess Day
trip ferry, it's big enough that the ride would be boring...in moderate
seas to rough...I am sure.
Things to Do:
Eating , relaxing, exploring, swimming, fishing, hiking, cooking, drinking..For
the sporting/adventurist among the group, I think the above activities,
and Hiking and Horseback riding are about it... if youbrought a decent
Mtn. Bike, I think you could ride for whole days on decent the plentiful
single track horse trails...but I didn't find any to rent...there are
also 2-3 sailboats in the cove, but privately owned, and the owners
were not about, for negotiations... I heard from several folks that
surfing, real surfing, is available in winter, at a sand beach about
10 minutes north by boat...and renting a boat and captain to take you
anywhere is not a problem...probably for $30usd to be dropped off and
picked up. Daily trips to Boca and Puerto Vallarta are possible too,
again by Taxi/ferry boat.
Palapa in Yelapa:
http://www.palapainyelapa.com This is Brad Wollman's site and his
main business now... he's a house finder, and facilitator. I met with
him a couple days, and he showed me several Casa's that would accommodate
a group of 10, 15, 20, 25 even.. He's about our age, and lives in Yelapa
full time now.. I think ex-DeadHeader type, and actually rather pleasant.He
keeps a journal on his web site that maybe would give you more insight
than I could explain, other than to say the he was helpful and I would
be happy to work solely thru him to book a house...cause he seems straight
and sincere.He also owns/leases Casa Iguana, which has several Palapa's
for rent, byday or week, and a tent site as well...one called Casita,
is a hobbit style single room and patio, with a round wooden door..see
http://www.palapainyelapa.com/pages/ci.html
I checked out many places with Brad, and came up with three options
I think could work...for the group to consider.
Option one; Casa Milagros,
This is the one we had heard about, and if you want a central Casa that
could handle 22-24 easily, it would be OK.I met with the Owner, Antonia,
and a current resident, Jari...they asked me to deal directly with them,
rather than thru Brad...anyways, the rooms are all clean, and the views
are great, and the kitchen is huge...the drawbacks are: Antonia stays
in the Casa, in one of the three rooms that are ensuite (7 other rooms
share 3 bathrooms) and one of the other, nicer rooms is rented long
term. This Casa is west of the Pueblo, about 1/2 mile, and the trail
is rugged, then steep...the steep part is concrete steps, but there
are alot of them... Cost; approx. $450usd per night for 9-10 rooms..or
45/night per room..rooms vary from 2 to 4 persons capacity, and maybe
there is an adder for extra folks... it was the least clear pricing
I got..
Option two; Los Naranjos, http://www.ranchoyelapa.com
I met owner - expat. Jarrett, and toured this with Brad...it's a huge
garden estate, with a central kitchen and living room palapa, and 4-5
out building-casas with 4 to 8 beds for sleeping, and each outbuilding
has a shared bath/shower/tub. It has it's own creek and swimming pool
with waterfall, and even tho it's the driest season now, it's beautiful
grounds and great kitchen-gathering place would work well fora large
group... Jarrett's a musician, and hosts workshops for yoga groups,
bands, etc here year round. the pictures on the website show the grounds
and nicer rooms, pretty well..Drawbacks: it's a 10 to 15 minute walk
on a dirt trail, upriver from the village and beach. probably pretty
dark at night... but if you stayed in the grounds, I think a great place.
Brad said that it's possible to have locals deliver food, beer, etc
for low cost... but we'll have to carry most luggage, instruments, etc
to the estate upon arrival. and asfor sleeping arrangements, a few of
the outbuildings, while covered palapa style, the sleeping rooms are
separated only by canvas walls, kind of like summer camp, or tent camping.
so at least 8-10 in the group are going to have to like each other alot..Cost:
Brad thinks we can reserve /rent the entire place for $250/person/week
at 20-22 people.
Option three; Vista Del Mar
Vista is basically 4 (maybe 5th by Winter) stacked 2 room Casa/condos
but they are nicely decorated, and have a great location tween the beach
and pueblo, so you could make it back from either in the dark, and not
a long hike from the water taxi or pier in town. Brad's description:
4 separate, well designed rooms. Each room has two full beds, a great
(but small) kitchen w/ refrigerator, Bathroom with hot water, Electricity,
Hammock and a fantastic view. None of these have a kitchen big enough
for more than 2 cooks at a time..or alot of counter space.. La Concha
, the 4th upper unit is even more deluxe with plenty of extra touches.
Cost: 60 USD per night (3 rooms, each could sleep 4) and 75 USD for
La Concha.(also could sleep 4) (that's $15 -17/ per person if 4 share
each) for the rest..
Next door is Las Brisas,
http://www.palapainyelapa.com/pages/lbds.html which is $85/night,
but lusher,and can sleep 5 more, brings us to 25... about 20 seconds
to the beach, but down a steep set of steps.
Casa Del Sol...which could act as the Hub, living room
and Kitchen and central hangout place it's owned by Brad's in-laws (who
live downstairs), and sleeps 6 adults and 4 kids, easily... but goes
for $150 / night by itself...http://www.palapainyelapa.com/pages/casa_del_sol.html
I think this option is my recommendation, is for optimum closeness and
yet ability to cook, eat and hang together, or go hide if need be, withsome
privacy, is to center on Casa Del Sol, and add 3-5 nearby Casa's,
as mentioned in Option three..
Aman