Crossing... When my friend was 14, he spent a year in the states. Now almost 30 years to the day later, he crosses again. We spend hours over years talking about the best way to cross and what it really is like in the USA. Finally we start to actually put our plan into action. The first key element was trust. Gringos really have to earn their trust. Maybe when I get to the states he wont remember me? or maybe he will change his personality and not really be the same person I knew in Mexico. Both of these are very common thoughts. It was easy for us , as we have been good friends for more than ten years.

Our first plan was to get a passport and a few letters of invitation and to enter Canada and then cross into the states from there. The passport was simple, a mere $50.00 and three days and we had permission to go and visit anywhere in the world except the United States. The next step failed quickly. Our connections in Canada were either too worried to brake rules or too worried to talk to us about breaking rules. It didn't feel secure. So lets go the old school route through Tijuana, we thought. My unnamed friend spent the next months saving hard earned pesos and putting together the roughly $2000 USD to cross. Remember to put that into perspective. As a Master Carpenter, he earns $35 USD per full day. Also put into the equation that he has a family of four.

You have to wonder if it is worth the struggling and being apart from your loved ones for over a year, just to have the opportunity to work real hard in the States? I believe the answer is yes... and so does he. If not for the immediate doubling of a days wages, for the experience.

Finding a Coyote in California was pretty much a snap. Every Mexican you know has a Coyote that their village or friends use. You still have to shop though. They come in different styles. As you can imagine, there are alot of ways to cross, as well as places to cross too. The cost ranges from $1400 to $2500 USD. We spent a week or so getting recommendations of Coyotes and asking lots questions. My friend , having accomplished getting all his affairs in order for the next year, as If that was even possible, said his goodbyes and headed for the border. A 30+hour bus ride and he arrived at his sisters house in Ensenada. A few days passed. We finally had found our man. This Coyote has the reputation of knowing a very easy crossing and to have crossed a few people we knew well. The next morning my friend left to meet him Tijuana. He was told to go to a specific location and call a number. Then he was told to take a taxi to another town and call another time and he would be picked up. He arrived in a town square, made his call. "We'll be there in 15 minutes". He tried to be low key and not attract any attention. A task that turned out to be hard. A man in a uniform kept staring at him... finally the man walked close and said "are you waiting for Lalo?" yes... "We'll I'm his representative" "Vamanos" It somehow didn't quite feel right. They headed off in a funny direction and after 30 minutes, my friend starts asking questions... things didn't seem to be adding up. They were real close though. Finally the uniformed man pulls over, they compare numbers and realize they both connected with the wrong persons. The uniformed man had been waiting hours for his person... So now what? My wise friend thought to himself," if I go back I probably will have problems, as the energy of this whole situation had brought him this far, he better go with the flow. He called his sister and explained his dilemma of now being in a different town, in a hotel with a different unknown Coyote. The call was brief saying he thought he would be in Los Angeles that night around 10:00PM. For us the next two days would be filled with waiting and hoping for his safety. It turned out that the group my friend was crossing with was of 10 men and 2 women. This was their fourth attempt. They had the the whole group go through a sort of fitness test to place them in order of condition. The slowest would be in the front of the group, so the people in good shape would push them to keep up. All were suited with cloth material over their shoes , as to hide footprints. When they would travel one direction, a coyote would take his off and footprint the area for deception.

At 5:00pm they finally left the little hotel in some unknown town and walked all night long! Some areas were filled with brush, some filled with barbed wire and some areas were the home of rattlesnakes. My friend who is smart as a fox, watched carefully the person in front of him ,when they ducked he did too... They finally hit the border at daylight and tunneled through to the other side. In this section the Immigration officers used helicopters and dogs. Luckily every time an officer would get close, they would be moving in another direction. Being able hide and produce footprints was the key! In a great move, they completely fooled the officers and made a run for a spot high, actually above the whole scene below. From there they could monitor all the immigration's moves. The group was told to run to a van , waiting on a nearby path. They piled in to an old van being driven by an old hippie playing weird music. They drove to a house and were fed and prepared for the next leg of the trip. My friend and 4 guys were put into a trunk of a small car being driven by a well dressed man and one of the women from the group was to pose as his wife holding a baby. They were told they would be in the trunk for twenty minutes. It turned out to be 2 hours. In the trunk with only the tiniest of pin holes for air, completely scrunched! One of the 4 guys was over 6 foot. To make matters worse every time they would get near a crossing the driver would turn up the music to a huge volume as a distraction / deception to the cargo in the trunk. My friend wasn't sure he was going to live through this... The big guy was starting to panic... with God or maybe Guadeloupe on there side, they hit Los Angeles and within a few hours our friend was dropped off to another friends neighborhood... All this for a opportunity to work hard and get paid fair.

9/24/03

My friend is completely settled and now confident , here in Sonoma County. He has a great job with a boss who respects him, a good wage and a free place to live... Yelapense are so very adaptable, not to mention their ability to communicate and work with the Gringo Community. You see they come from a community that is based on tourism for two generations. I belive that is the key. Here in California ,The Yelapense that live here are so different from the common Mexican. They have a certain confidence to them. They have the ability to look you in the eye and show you their energy.

1/25/04 four months later...

I had this idea a year ago, to journal my six months in Yelapa. Who knew I would start a new life with Veronica and the Kid's. But I'm sure glad I have this last year documented. I dream of being able to look at it in ten years with my family. I'm also fortunate to have Yelapa in my life. When I'm not in Yelapa this page offers me the time and space to be there, virtually. The down side was that I dont think my family thinks the raw sharing of personal information, isn't the best of things.So I am now thinking of a new format, coming soon....

Over the past year I've met so many awesome people from all over the world. In years past, I've met them on the beach or on the trail but now I meet most of you from Email correspondence. Over this year, more than 18,000 people have visited this site! I truly enjoy helping people have positive experiences in Yelapa. Thanks for all of your support!

I hope you come and visit our Casa Iguana. It is, just as advertised... simple and sweet.....and has very affordable prices for nice people.

I also want to thank David for all his his energy and support to the community of Yelapa. David's Web Page helps so many people with their vacation in Yelapa and he offers his services completely free of charge.

Adios for now....

2/13/04
Fresh in from the road...

Bulging at the seams, in many ways, me and my Chinook headed for Oakland and to visit Yelapense, German , Lindsay and Lailanni. During the past weeks of test drives with my vehicle maxed by at least 1000 pounds of carrying capacity, it would shimmy all over the road. It was quite a sight with the front end sticking up as the wheels seemed to barely touch the ground. One of the pieces of advice I received was to deflate the front tires a bit and that felt as though it was a quick fix. I was amazed as I could actually control the car. What a treat for a 3000 mile drive. After a wonderful meal of Albondagas soup (fish balls) and a viewing of a very important fut ball game and playing with Lailanni. I was to get the first chance to spend the night in my Chinook. I actually still had a space about as wide as I am to sleep. After a few hours of deep sleep, I awoke and decided to head on.... I drove to the the first rest stop on the I -5 and slept for another bit and did that throughout the night and it turned out to be my mode the entire trip. In the morning I was at the much fretted over , Grapevine. This would be the test... could I make it? There I was huddled around by a group of huge trucks. Slowly but surely, mostly in second gear, I passed through my nightmare. Quickly I dashed through LA and on to Desert Hot Springs and my bi yearly visit with my Dad. Family ... very close to the usual visit... a dinner,a soak in the natural mineral baths, tense conversation about our past and present and a brisk adios, in the morning...Arizona in one day is a breeze, leaving me at another major stress point... The Border Crossing.... I sat there for an hour on the US side, vibing out the scene. I asked a few people for opinions, If I should cross at night, right before closing or first thing in the morning?
most thought the morning would be smoother but I flashed that if I was to have my total car contents examined then better at night so they better think twice about it, if they care to go home anywhere close to on time. I was ready and crossed, no turning back now . I accomplished my paper process in a snap and headed slowly to the road. Instantly I was signaled to the side. "Where are you going?" the same old question "Vallarta" I responded , as he waved me by... cautiously excited I headed to the South. My next leg would be tough. Driving a narrow two lane bumpy curvy highway at night with limited lighting as to the bicycle mounted on my front grill and the true skill was to avoid the line of massive truck rigs that blow by pulling my camper into them. As a seasoned driver of this road and accustomed to this level of danger, I became almost content when suddenly above a rise appeared a new, or now ready , large customs inspection... I couldn't find my confidence, If you'd payed me. The classic serious looking mexican asks for my papers. As he walks away to examine them , I notice the 7 cars parked in the lot with all of the contents out and a small army going through them! As he circles my car , he returns and asks me in spanish if I had paid for my undeclared goods? huh? I responded he asks another three times to the same response. I had pulled out the stupid American card. I finally respond ...yes I'm an american, oh my things? mostly clothes and gifts... he thinks for a moment and hands me my papers and waves me on with disgust. I had accomplished my greatest challenge, sneaking the rotor-tiller, computer and a load of goodies into Mexico. I flew down the road blaring my ranchero music and thinking of my family. The next day of driving through the Sonoran Desert was relatively easy, as I have done it a few times. Nights were a bit tricky. I had a lot of goods strapped to the outside of my car and many found them tempting and interesting. Who isn't tempted to check out a motorcycle with a plastic cows head attached to the front of it. Just by timing and chance most places I rested were not safe for long periods , so I made a long distance in a short time. I met some amazing people along the way. Overall most Mexicans are so gracious, way more polite than we as Americans could ever be. I ate tacos most meals. It's sad that the good tacos are not found on the main streets that the majority of people travel, but on the back-roads... Next thing I knew I was close to green and lush Mazatlan. I headed for Joletemba my favorite stopping point at my friend , Mariano's. Every time I try to find his village from this direction I get lost , including this time. This time was especially tough, as my huge load and the windy steep roads are not a match. After as few extra hours of perilous driving ,I traveled through El Llano, the town this side of my destination... I spent an hour visiting and telling stories of our world and off to Vallarta, which is only two hours away... I stopped in Los Varas and bought a bunch of fruit... thinking that I wont have to actually carry it by boat , but by car to Yelapa, so I stocked up on Bananas, Coconuts and more. A mere blink of an eye and I was back in Vallarta and at my favorite taco stand. I called the family and shocked them with my location... It was getting dark so we decided I should stay on the road tonight and connect with Vero's Dad tomorrow morning. I was 5 minutes from my final destination , when things went astray. I truly was crossing over the last tope of my trip. A tope is a bigger more blunt version of a speed bump. They are all over Mexico, located in the center of most towns, to slow you down, especially to sell you something. During the drive , I had to be very conscious of them because not seeing one and hitting it with speed and seeing that my car was inches away from scraping the bumper , on a good day, I had to be totally on it... well as you can figure by now, I absolutely didn't see the very last one!!! So at 40 mph, I hit my ramp launching my car into the air and when I land , the bicycle falls off and there is a loud pounding ... I screech to a stop... and quickly check my situation... The car still starts and the bike seems ok.. I gather the things that fell of and get to a pull out before the police come. Neighbors begin to gather...I smile thinking , it's all ok.. I reload the car and prepare to head off and I see a man seated across the street , watching this free adventure movie of mine. I yell to him, "I didn't see the tope" he laughs, and tells me I'm not going anywhere, as the radiator starts to spew steam! The bike had somehow punctured my radiator! I couldn't believe it! To be minutes from Boca , final destination! I pull my heart from the floor of my car and open up the hood to check out the damage... The Senor comes over to get a closer look too. We wait till its possible to see. Next thing I know his son appears with a huge container of water and concern. I quickly ground myself and begin to channel my mechanic ,Frank. He tells me to check out the fan.. and with a very lucky moment I realize that the fan isn't working and my plan of attack becomes clear. I now have two co -pilots also! After disassembling my load to get at my tools, we managed to remove the fan shield that munged my fan...I prayed to my gods, some human, and we started up the Chinook... the fan started !!! After two hours... I was back on the road... We reloaded the Chinook and I pulled 200 pesos from my pocket for my amigo's...
They looked at me like I had said something bad about a family member. NO ...was response... Once again Mexico shines!!! unbelievable.... I'll go back later this week and try to offer some fruit or some service... I honk my rooster horn and wave to new friends and drive the three minutes to Boca for the night. I ask a security guard if I can sleep in the parking lot of the restaurant .. sure...I offer him some of my bounty of bananas for a late night snack... I cleaned house and got all in order for tomorrow, an important day! 8:00 am, I met my Father in Law and headed for Tuito, our municipal community, which is located one hour south of Boca. We slowly passed through town and it's many high topes. We made it to the dirt road and headed on the next leg to Chacala, which is two hours, down the dirt road. Well I should say up the dirt road. The toughest part here was the dips at the crossings...
We would get out and survey the situation and then sort of gun it and pray we made it! It was the noise of my scraping back custom welded motocycyle rack that was bad. It wasn't hurting the car... Halfway my muffler started to fall off... Marcos took apart someone's barbwire fence and repaired it quickly. Stopped for a quick dip in the ancient Agua Caliente Springs and after another hour pulled into Chacala and the casa of my Tio, Cria and his wife, Noemi. Within a few miinutes of arrival, our Primo, Aldo showed up with his big and powerful truck to carry us and all my things to the next leg, from Chacala up the dirt road one hour to Yelapa and to drive right to my casa which Veronica and the kids were waiting, after cutting the barbed wire and a hole in the fence. Back in Chacala, I started the task of unloading my things. After loading the Rototiller with my buddy, Bill and remembering our sore bodies, I let the group of four, go for it with enthusiasm. Neighbors came by to watch the show of goods from the states. Within a couple of hours we were loaded to the brim and off headed to Yelapa and home... The road was basically in good shape but not a match for my car. Major clearance is needed. The views from high above the bay are awesome and give you a greater sense of the locality of Yelapa. As we pulled into Sabino's terrain, next door, my heart pounded with excitement!!! this wasn't a dream... there they were..my sweet family with huge smiles! We unloaded and carried our treasures to the upper casa and then ran to say hello to the other thing I miss daily , while in the States, my Hammock!!!!

5/30/04

Well the season flew by and I didnt finish my new projects but have a good bit done. Soon you will see the results. I am currently in Sonoma County getting ready for three months of hard work. Once again ...Please Stay Tuned....

8/19/04

Well summer camp is a day away from over and Im off to Yelapa in a few weeks... look forward to a brand new, palapainyelapa.com... coming soon..yea right