6/11/02

There is nothing subtle about Mexico in June! For months I 've been watching and appreciating the sublte changes of nature in Yelapa. The shifting sun and moon rising over the mountains, the changing colour of the sky at sunset, the longer days and warmer nights...and then came JUNE. I know now why so many people leave, and also why some of us stay. The town is dead quiet. Locals have opened up even more to me now that I'm here for the summer.  There's a deeper level of acceptance, like I've joined a private club. There are new birds around that I've not seen before, the birdsong is more intense, juicy mangoes, guanabana, and passionfruit are ripe and falling on the ground everywhere just waiting to be eaten.
 
The days are long and sultry, the nights are either stiflingly hot or windy and cold. There are days when all I do is lie on my day bed with fans blowing on me. We all try to move as little as possible, and when we do move its very very slow. I imagine there arent many babies born in Mexico in March of April. Its just too hot to touch someone in this heat. Dealing with yourown body heat is difficult enough. Cold showers only help when you are under them.
 
But its the rain that really brings a whole new dimension to living here. I had been warned about the intensity of rain. I figured two months notice was enough to get my landlord to repair my 'holey' tin roof before the rains started in earnest. Apparently it wasnt. Last nights rain was ferocious. Even if the sound hadnt woken me I would not have been able to sleep. One of the holes is right over my bed so my hanging bed quickly became a water bed. Luckily I have two other beds. I've started covering the place with tarps and im Vallarta buying more.
 
The ride on the ponga this morning was brutal. Though the ponga has a tarp cover, it really didnt matter much. The winds whipped the rains into our boat at such an angle that everyone was soaked. The waves were enormous. All of us sat with our heads down, arms on our laps, hands out holding on to the seats in front of us. To have seen us I'm sure we looked like we were all deep in prayer. If we had been, I'm sure the prayer would have been 'let this end soon'. It wasnt scary, just unpleasant. Its still raining and I am soaked to the skin. Looking back at everyone from the front of the boat I had to laugh. We looked like the ugliest wet t-shirt contest you could imagine.
 
The first rain in Yelapa was absolutely incredible. It was just a light rain early in the morning. It was, however, strong enough to wipe out the electricity. Actually we now lose our electricity everyday during the rain and for a few hours afterwards - so much for all of those fans and refrigerators we've all come to rely on.
 
So with the first ran came the crabs. Experiencing the crabs is not something I will ever forget. The whole town became filled with hundreds of thousands of crabs. They are everywhere. Walking down the street its like the parting of the red sea, as the little critters scurry to the sides of the path to get out of the way. As they run sideways, they look up with their big black eyes, outstretched arms and mouths opening and closing as if to say 'oh no, oh no'. It reminds me of Mr. Bill from Saturday night live. They really are adorable. Walking through town you hear the click clicking of them climbing over rocks, walls, eachother. Most of them get out of your way,except for the ones on the beach. They are a whole different breed.
 
Salsa Mark, who I met in March, was lucky enough to be back in town for the invasion of the crabs. We went for dinner on the beach. Instead of runing away from us, they were coming towards us and some even climbed on our feet. They even climbed on my dog, which he did not like one bit. I'm sure we would have had to deal with even more if it werent for the little boy at the restaurant who was having a wonderful time playing 'bash the crabs to death with a coke bottle' a favourite game played by all Yelapan kids at this time of year. The invasion is so bizarre. Its a bit like a Hitchcock film, with crabs climbing in and out of everythinig.
 
Walking backfrom the bach we had to walk up dark covered stairs. That was truly a horror movie scene. There were so many crabs in such a tight space they couldnt all get out from under our feet fast enough - UGH! They were climbing the walls and ceiling and falling all around us. It was creepy. I was squealing - just like a girl! We passed my friend Alison who lives on the beach. She and her boyfirend were playing 'crab hockey', trying to keep them out of her house with a broom. When I checked the score of the game a few days later, it was dismal. Gringos -2  Crabs -2000. I cant imagine having thousands in my house. Luckily there havent been any in my house - yet. That hill is handy for many things!
 
People still ask me if I'm going to stay the summer. My answer is sounding less and less sure.